Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia - Thomas Mitchell
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16TH JULY.--After some examination of the valley before us, I considered
it best, upon the whole, to travel in the bed of the river itself, and
thus avoid the frequent necessity for crossing with so much labour and
delay: the sandy bed was heavy for the wheels, and therefore distressing
to the animals, and one or two rocky masses obliged us to work out of it,
to get round them. The whole day was consumed in proceeding thus about 51/2
miles, and in an easterly direction. The closing in of the valley lower
down, seemed to shut us from further progress even so, and I encamped,
rather at a loss how to proceed. Just then Mr. Stephenson came to inform
me that he had seen, from a rocky point on the left, an opening to the
north-west, and level ground beyond it. I therefore determined to
accompany him next day, and to reconnoitre the country in that direction.
By digging in the bed of the creek, water was again obtained by Corporal
Graham. Some extremely fragrant shrubs were discovered in these rocky
recesses, especially one, which filled the air with perfume to a great
distance around. It seemed to be a EUCALYPTUS without flowers or fruit,
but with a powerful odour of balm, and formed a bush five feet high,
growing on sandstone rocks, having a narrow leaf, and rather thorny
stalk. The lower leaves were also rough.[*] There was another bush, with
leaves of the same shape, and glossy, but having a perfume equally strong
of the lime.[**] We regretted much, that neither the seed, flower, nor
fruit of these interesting shrubs could be obtained at that season. In
that valley, we saw also the DAUCUS BRACHIATUS, an inconspicuous weed,
and MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII. The soft leaved ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA began
to indicate its flowering season, and we found a magnificent new crimson
CALLISTEMON with its young flowers and leaves wrapped in wool.[***] A new
DODONOEA with wingless, 3-cornered, 3-celled fruit[****]; a new species
of AOTUS, with narrow hoary leaves[*****], and one of the forest trees
was a splendid new GEIGERA, with broad lance-shaped leaves.[******] The
PLATYZOMA MICROPHYLLUM, a very singular and little known fern, with
narrow leaves and small orbicular leaflets, was also there, with the
ACACIA FALCATA, ACACIA EXCELSA, and a shaggy-leaved variety of the AJUGA
AUSTRALIS, the Australian bugle. The BRUNONIA SERICEA, with its scabious-
like heads of flowers, was common; and the blue flowered HARDENBERGIA
MONOPHYLLA was observed among the grass. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25 deg.; at
9 P.M., 41 deg..
[* E. MELISSIODORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis ferrugineo-tomentosis scabris,
foliis utrinque papillis rubiginosis scabris ovato-oblongis obtusis supra
basim peltatis (floribus fructibusque ignotis).]
[** E. CITRIODORA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis fuscis minute
tuberculatis, foliis lato-lanceolatis petiolatis pinnulatis patenti-
parallelo-venosis viridibus (non glaucis). Sir Wm. Hooker has ventured to
name this EUCALYPTUS, though without flower or fruit, from the
deliciously fragrant lemon-like odour, which exists in the dry as well as
the recent state of the plant.]
[*** C. NERVOSUM (Lindl. MS.); ramis pallidis, foliis ovato-lanceolatis
quinque-nerviis mucronatis junioribus tomentosis, rachi calycibusque
lanatis.]
[**** D. TRIGONA (Lindl. MS.); ramulis subpilosis, foliis obovato-
lanceolatis parum pilosis integerrimis vel utrinque unidentatis, capsulis
3-locularibus trigonis apteris.]
[***** A. MOLLIS (Benth. MS.); undique molliter tomentoso-villosus, ramis
crectis-rigidis, foliis sparsis anguste oblongis margine revolutis,
calycis vix bilabiati dentibus subaequalibus, ovario breviter stipitato
villosissimo.--Near A. PASSERINOIDES Meisn., but differing in the narrow
and longer leaves, the calyx and ovary.]
[****** G. LATIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); foliis ovato-lanceolatis longe
petiolatis subtus obscure pubescentibus junioribus convolutis.--This
appears to differ from G. SALICIFOLIA in its long-stalked leaves.]
17TH JULY.--Our ride this morning soon led amongst different scenes. By
merely turning to the left we came upon a flat, in which another water-
course, similar to that we had been tracing (Balmy Creek), came from the
west, apparently out of that inaccessible country, across which I had
previously looked in vain for a passage. Several other gullies joined
this water-course, and seared the flat, which consisted of a deep clay
deposit, in almost every direction. After crossing these, we found a fine
broad opening between rocky precipices of most picturesque forms. This
gap I called Stephenson's Pass; it led into a spacious glen surrounded on
all sides but the N.W. by mountains such as I have described, recalling
to my memory the most imaginative efforts of Mr. Martin's saepia drawing,
and showing how far the painter's fancy may anticipate nature. But, at
the gorge of this valley, there stood a sort of watch-tower, as if to
guard the entrance, so like a work of art, that even here, where men and
kangaroos were equally wild and artless, I was obliged to look very
attentively, to be quite convinced that the tower was the work of nature
only. A turret with a pointed roof, of a colour corresponding, first
appeared through the trees, as if it had been built on the summit of a
round hill. On a nearer approach the fine tints of the yellowish grey
rocks, and the small pines climbing the sides of a hill abruptly rising
out of a forest of common trees, presented still a very remarkable
object. I named the valley "Glen Turret," and this feature "Tower
Almond," after an ancient castle, the scene of many early associations,
and now quite as uninhabited as this. Passing through Glen Turret, we
ascended the nearest summit on the right, and from it beheld a prospect
most cheering, after our toils amid rocky ravines. On the westward, the
rocky range seemed to terminate abruptly towards the north, in an
elevated point, which seemed to command an extensive view over the
unknown W. and N.W. Out of that region two isolated mountain masses arose
from an open country, and were clothed with open forests to their
summits. Further eastward, masses of mountain in the extreme distance
appeared covered, also, with open forests, and presented finely rounded
outlines, not likely to impede our passage, in any direction. But towards
the N.W. our view was not so extensive; like the uncertain future, it
still lay hid. The retrospect was very extensive, including Mount Faraday
in the extreme distance, and which thus afforded me a valuable back angle
for the correction of our longitude from any errors of detailed survey.
The lofty mass of Buckland's Table Land still overlooked all from the E.,
and I could here again intersect its three principal points. The view
back to the Pass was very fine, for the rocks and wood were so blended on
the bold summits, as to present sublime studies for the artist. Far to
the westward, an interior line of cliffy range resembled a sea beach,
presenting a crescent, concave on that side, apparently the limit to the
basin of the Nogoa, and the dividing range between eastern and western
waters. Our Pass seemed to be the only outlet through the labyrinths
behind us. Even the open plains beyond them were visible in a yellow
streak above the precipices. Far beyond these plains, Mount Faraday was
distinctly visible, on the horizon of the landscape. Thermometer, at
sunrise, 29 deg.; at 9 P.M., 43 deg.. (LI.) 1234 feet above the sea.
18TH JULY.--By retracing our horses' footsteps, the carts were soon
brought to the base of the same hill; deep gullies in the clay having
obliged us to pass close under it, and, indeed, to cross two of its
elevated extremities. We found the country beyond, in a N.W. direction,
tolerably open, and we encamped in a valley containing abundance of
grass, and near to our camp, water was found in a chain of ponds
descending to the eastward. A new SUAEDA, with short leaves, and the
habit of a dwarf Tamarisk, was found this day.[*] Latitude, 24 deg. 6' 47" S.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 31 deg.; at noon, 65 deg.; at 4 P.M., 69 deg.; at 9, 44 deg..
(LII.)
[* S. TAMARISCINA (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, foliis brevibus
cylindraceis imbricatis obtusissimis, axillis lanatis, floribus
solitariis sessilibus.]
19TH JULY.--With the intention to lose no opportunity of getting further
to the westward, I travelled on towards the base of the most northern
summit of the range in the west; but I was, at length, so shut up by
gullies and scrubby extremities near its base and all radiating from it,
and becoming very deep, that I took the party aside into a grassy ravine
near, where I directed the men to encamp, and hastened myself to the
summit. From it, the view westward was not so extensive as I expected.
Something like precipitous slopes to some channel or water-course,
apparently falling either S. W. or N. E., formed the most promising
feature; but, although my object was to have travelled in that direction,
the scrub seemed too thick to admit of a passage. Open forest land
appeared to the N. E., and there, the gently undulating features,
although much lower than the range on whose northern extremity I then
stood, seemed nevertheless to form a connection between it and some
higher ranges of open forest land, that appeared between me and the
coast. Through one wide opening in these, about east, I saw some broken
hills, at a very great distance, say seventy or eighty miles. The ridgy-
connected undulations formed the heads of some valleys sloping to the
south-east, whereof the waters would evidently join those of the Balmy
Creek, while others, rising on the north-west side, seemed to belong to a
separate basin, and to form a river falling to the north-west. This river
was indicated only by slopes meeting and interlacing in a valley. To the
left or westward of that supposed river channel, a mighty isolated
mountain mass shut out any view of the further course of the water of the
valley formed between it and these slopes; but, as the very lowest point
of the whole horizon, as indicated by the spirit-level of the theodolite,
lay in that direction, I determined to pursue that bearing, (10 deg. W. of
N.) through the open forest country that intervened. I found that the
mountain commanding this view, was elevated 2247 feet above the sea,
according to the Syphon barometer, and in using this instrument, I could
not forget Colonel Mudge, who had kindly taught me its use; I therefore
named that summit Mount Mudge. In the gravel at the base of the hill,
were water-worn pebbles of trap and basalt. The rock of which the range
itself consisted, seemed to be a calcareous grit, with vegetable
impressions, apparently of GLOSSOPTERIS BROWNII. On descending to the
camp, I was informed that the cattle-watering party came suddenly upon
two natives, one of whom was a placid old man, the other middle-aged.
Corporal Graham did all he could to allay their fears, and convince them
that they were in no danger from such strangers. The elder at length
handed his little bundle to the younger and sat down, on seeing the
Corporal's green bough; meanwhile the other walked on. When Graham took
the old man's hand, and shook it, also patting him on the back, and
expressing a friendly disposition only, the poor helpless man of the
woods burst into tears, finding himself incapable of either words or
deeds suitable for a meeting so uncommon. They could not relieve him from
this state of alarm, so readily as by leaving him sitting, and moving on,
which they did. In the scrubs near this camp, Mr. Stephenson discovered a
very remarkable tree, apparently a casuarina, having long drooping
leaves, hanging like long hair from its upper boughs[*]; and in the stony
gullies a DODONAEA allied to D. SALSOLIFOLIA A. CUNN., from Van Diemen's
Land, but the leaves slenderer, and three or four times longer[**].
Although we were approaching the tropics, the weather was most cool and
pleasant. A delicious breeze played amongst the woods, and welcomed us to
the Torrid Zone. Until now, during every clear night the air had been
frosty. Latitude, 24 deg. 6' 50" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34 deg.; at noon,
68 deg.; at 4 P.M., 61 deg.; at 9, 47 deg..
[* See page 285.]
[* D. FILIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis sparsis ramis binis ternisve
lineariangustissimis elongatis subrugosis viscosis glabris utrinque
canaliculatis falcatis, fructibus trialatis.]
Chapter VI.
THE PARTY DESCENDS INTO A VALLEY FALLING NORTHWARD.--COMES UPON A CHAIN
OF PONDS.--THE HEAD OF THE RIVER BELYANDO.--FOLLOW IT DOWN, THROUGH MUCH
WATER SCARCE AT FIRST, IN ITS BED.--RANGE OF HILLS VISIBLE TO THE
EASTWARD.--CROSS THE TROPIC OF CAPRICORN.--MOUNT NARRIEN.--OPEN PLAINS,
WEST OF THE RIVER.--WATER MORE PLENTIFUL.--NEW PLANTS DISCOVERED.--DRY
CHANNEL OF A LARGE RIVER JOINS FROM S.W.--CROSS IT AND PROCEED N.W.--FROM
A HEIGHT OBTAIN A VIEW OF THE NORTHERN HORIZON.--MUCH BRIGALOW SCRUB
TRAVERSED.--REACH THE RIVER BY MOONLIGHT.--FOLLOW THE CHANNEL MORE
CLOSELY.--COME UPON LARGE REACHES OF WATER.--ANOTHER DRY CHANNEL JOINS
FROM W.S.W.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE BEYOND IT, TO THE NORTH-WEST.--CROSS
FINE DOWNS.--LIMESTONE IN A THICK SCRUB.--ENTER THICK BRIGALOW.--NIGHT
WITHOUT WATER.--NEXT DAY MEET WITH THE RIVER.--ITS COURSE BEING EASTWARD
OF NORTH, DETERMINE TO RETURN.--NATIVES.--RETRACE OUR TRACK TO THE
PYRAMIDS, IN ORDER TO EXPLORE MORE TO THE WESTWARD.--PREPARE TO DEPART,
WITH TWO MEN AND YURANIGH.--WRITE DESPATCH TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT.
20TH JULY.--AFTER a little trouble with the gullies and brigalow scrub,
on first setting off, we came upon fine undulating open forest land, and
crossed many a gully and small water-course, all declining towards the
N.E. A very remarkable flat-topped hill appeared on our right, resembling
a wart, on one of these ridges; to the northward it was precipitous, and
seemed to consist of a very red rock. At length, after crossing a ridge
rather broader than the rest, with some brigalow scrub upon it, and one
or two specimens of that tree of solitary places, the bottle tree,
(DELABECHEA) we arrived at valleys and water-courses descending to the
southward of west, into a valley turning to the N.W. One, at length, on
our right, taking the direction in which I was proceeding, viz., 10 deg. W.
of N., I followed it down, and thus entered a broader valley leading N.W.
Following this, on a wide flat of open forest, we found at length a fine
pond of water in it, and encamped beside it, after a journey of about
twelve miles. This valley seemed to continue to the base of the lofty
isolated mountain already mentioned, where a lower valley crossed it,
falling either to the northward or southward. This I left in pleasing
uncertainty until next morning, for I had remarked in that locality, when
I stood on Mount Mudge, a long line of grey mist running north and south.
I named the large mountain beyond that valley, Mount Beaufort, in honour
of my scientific friend at the Admiralty. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40 deg.;
at noon, 66 deg.; at 4 P.M., 73 deg.; at 9, 62 deg.. (LIII.)
21ST JULY.--On following downwards the chain of ponds and broad valley,
we came upon the bed of a river, running to the N.N.E. We gladly turned
in that direction, and after it had received various tributaries from the
south, I found it took the course I had foreseen it must from Mount
Mudge. We saw water in the channel, and now again I believed that we had
at length discovered the head of a northwestern river. The soil consisted
of firm clay, and tributaries occasionally impeded our journey. We got
amongst brigalow scrub, and could find no water in looking for the
channel of the river, which we knew must still have been on our left.
Ponds in the scrub could not easily be identified as channels. I met with
no better success on turning to the left, and encamped amongst the
brigalow, where I found some grass. On riding westward I came upon arid
stony ground, on which many of the trees were dead, apparently from
drought, and so near the Tropic such a scene was by no means encouraging.
On turning my horse, he trod on an old heap of fresh watermussles, at an
old fireplace of the natives. This was a cheering proof that water was
not distant, which was further indicated by the flight of two native
companions, from the N.W. We had encamped on a flat of clay, on which
salsolaceous bushes, such as grew on similar plains on the Bogan, had
been growing, but were then all withered from drought. The very grass
seemed parched and useless. I never saw vegetation so checked by drought.
A longer continuance was likely to kill all the trees, and convert the
country into open downs. I determined, before I ventured further, to send
the cattle to a pond four miles back, next morning, and to examine the
country before us. Latitude, 23 deg. 48' 36". Thermometer, at sunrise, 57 deg.;
at noon, 69 deg.; at 4 P.M., 75 deg.; at 9, 48 deg..
22D JULY.--Having sent bullocks, horses, and sheep back to the water, I
went forward on the bearing of 30 deg. W. of N. I soon fell in with the
united channel of the river, and found in it abundant ponds of water, the
direction of the course being as favourable as could be wished. From
these ponds I perceived a clear hill to the westward, which I hastened to
ascend, and from its summit I beheld some fine mountains to the
northward, although an easterly wind and sea air brought a haze over
them, which soon obscured some of my points. But I saw enough to relieve
me of all anxiety at that time about the want of water. A promising
valley from the mountains in the eastward, came due west, and from it
arose the smoke of many natives' fires. Lines of other rivers, from other
ranges, were partly visible beyond, until the haze obscured the outlines
of mountains still more remote. The bright prospects of this morning were
a pleasing contrast to the temporary difficulties of yesterday. Such is
human life in travelling, and so it was in war at Salamanca this day
thirty-four years back. We encamped after a short journey on the bank of
the river. Latitude, 24 deg. 46' 46". Thermometer, at sunrise, 49 deg., at noon,
74 deg.; at 4 P.M., 73 deg.; at 9, 64 deg.. (LIV.)
23D JULY.--The water in the adjacent pond was trodden into mud, so that
none remained for the horses and bullocks this morning. Accordingly, on
arriving at a pond about two miles on, we gave water to all, that they
might better bear the privation in the afternoon, should we not
fortunately find more. The river had a singular tendency to spread into
little channels within a belt of brigalow scrub. The little holes formed
by these channels were almost all dry, while the withered state of the
grass, and even of the forest trees, showed that rain had long been due,
and we therefore hoped some would fall before our return. When we had
travelled about twelve miles, keeping as close to the river line as the
scrub would permit, and crossing one or two fine rising grounds covered
with a very open forest, and consisting of large gravel, I found a pond,
and encamped near it, on a plain of almost naked clay. Amongst the water-
worn pebbles, of which the rising ground consisted, there were, besides
the ingredients of the Barwan gravel, many of trap and basalt. Very old
and dry grass only, could be had for the cattle. In the pond were small
fishes of a different form from any we had seen, having a large forked
tail, only two or three spikes in the dorsal fin, and a large jet-black
eye within a broad silvery ring. Mr. Stephenson found three crabs,
apparently identical with those about the inlets near Sydney. Latitude,
23 deg. 37' 51". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 46 deg.; at noon, 73 deg.; at 4 P.M. 80;
at 9, 55 deg.. (LV.)
24TH JULY.--The morning was overcast by heavy clouds, and the air was
balmy and mild, reminding us of the spring season near Sydney. Lightning
had been seen to the northward during the night. In following the little
wayward channel downward, we met with much brigalow scrub, and crossed
two apparently important tributaries. In one of them was a good large
pond. We had some trouble with an ana-branch, resembling the main
channel, which we had twice to cross at a distance of two miles. With the
last tributaries, plains and an open forest country became neighbours to
the river; and where we encamped beside it, no scrub was to be seen, and
the water lay in a deep broad reach, nearly half a mile in length, with
ducks upon it. Towards evening, the unwonted sound of thunder was heard
in the west, reminding us, at this season of the year, that we were near
the Tropic. In the same direction, two distant storms exhausted
themselves, and most likely giving birth to young grass where they fell.
During the night, much thunder was heard, and also early next morning, to
the northward. Latitude, 23 deg. 31' S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56 deg.; at
noon, 75 deg.; at 4, P.M., 82 deg.; at 9, 66 deg.. (LVI.)
25TH JULY.--There was no hill or other geographical feature near our
route, whereby it might have been possible to mark there the limit of
Tropical Australia. We were the first to enter the interior beyond that
line. Three large kangaroos hopping across a small plain, were visible,
just as we entered these regions of the sun. The air was extremely
fragrant; the shrubs and grass being still moist with the thunder-shower.
The course of the river continued favourable, and the country seemed to
improve as we advanced, opening into plains skirted by scrubs of
rosewood, and drooping shrubs whose verdure was most refreshing to the
eye, after just having passed through dry and withered brigalow. At eight
miles a large lagoon appeared on our left, on which we saw many ducks,
and at nine miles we encamped where the grass seemed good, finding that
water was at hand now, in the river bed, wherever we required it.
Latitude, 23 deg. 25' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45 deg.; at noon, 77 deg.; at 4
P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 53 deg.. (LVII.)
26TH JULY.--The river appearing to pursue a W. N.W. course, I set out in
that direction, attracted there, also, by some open plain separated by
scrub from the river. We travelled on, a good many miles, when, instead
of the firm clay, we found, under foot soft, red sand, and trees of the
genus callitris growing in close thickets. I turned to the northward, and
travelled many miles to the eastward of north, without seeing any
indications of the river, whose general course had been previously
straight. Scrubs of almost every description lay in our way. Brigalow,
rosewood, casuarina, a thick light-green scrub of a close-growing bush,
new to us, and some scrubs of the tree as yet undescribed for want of
flowers or fruit, although well known to us as a graceful, and, indeed;
useful bush; of which, as an impediment, we could not much complain; and
useful, as forming excellent whip-shafts. This is the tree of unknown
fruit figured in my former journal. At length, when it was growing late,
I travelled eastward to make sure of the river, and, at length, regained
its banks, where we found in its bed plenty of water. The surface looked
bare, and the grass dry; but this day I discovered green shoots amongst
it, evidently the product of recent rain, and indicating the approach of
spring. On sandstone rocks, we found a plant which Sir William Hooker
terms "a singular Euphorbiaceous (?) plant[*]," destitute of flower and
fruit. Branches very thick, and they, as well as the long petioles and
underside of the leaves clothed with dense white wool. Leaves a span
long, cordato acuminate; the laminae all pointing downwards, glossy green
and glabrous above. Also a new DODONOEA, with very narrow, linear,
pinnated leaves. The only hills visible, from a tree ascended by
Yuranigh, during this day's journey were those to the eastward, already
seen. None appeared above the horizon in any other direction.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 39 deg.; at noon, 79 deg.; at 4 P.M., 89 deg.; at 9, 75 deg..
(LVIII,)
[* D. TENUIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); glaberrima, viscosa, ramulis angulatis,
foliis impari pinnatis: foliolis 3-5-jugis linearibus obtusis
subalternis.]
27TH JULY.--The same characteristic, still distinguished our river; a
variety of channels, so concatenated amongst brigalow scrub, much whereof
lay dead, that it was scarcely possible to ascertain whether there was
any main channel. Hitherto, I had not detected one; but this was of
little consequence to us, so long as these ponds contained abundance of
water. This we saw in many parts of our route this day; for I kept as
close as possible to the river's course, to avoid such detours as that of
yesterday, and being very anxious about the river's general direction, I
was glad to find it turn somewhat westward of north. After travelling
thus about nine miles, I perceived a blue pic nearly due north, which I
named Mount Narrien; and Yuranigh saw from a tree, that there was a range
in the same direction, but very distant. This seemed likely not only to
send down some additional waters to our river, but also to turn it
westward. Entering, soon after, upon a plain of good grass, I looked for
water; and, on finding some, encamped after a journey of about eleven
miles. Latitude, 23 deg. 9'S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43 deg.; at noon, 83 deg.; at
4 P.M., 90 deg.; at 9, 53 deg.. (LIX.)