Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia - Thomas Mitchell
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[* E. RHOMBEUM (Lindl. MS.); ramulis pubescentibus, foliis carnosis
obtuse rhombeis revolutis subtus glabris, pedicellis terminalibus
unifloris tomentosis foliis brevioribus, staminibus pilosis.]
[* E. SUBSPICATA (Hook. MS.); foliis linearibus obtusis supra glabris
subtus ramisque albo-tomentosis, corymbis terminalibus spiciformibus,
involucri squamis lineari-oblongis albis apice viridipunctatis.]
2D SEPTEMBER.--We recrossed the perfectly level plain formerly mentioned.
We found, on reaching the Claude, that our bridge, then made, had been
much damaged by a flood. The little river was still running, and it was
cheering to learn thus, that rain had fallen at its sources, beyond
which, I had still much to do. We lost no time in repairing our bridge,
so that all things were got across safely. We ascended the undulating
downs along our old track, and where many curious specimens of trees in
flint, lay mixed with the rich black mould. I observed that no entire
sections of trunks were cylindrical, all appearing to have been
compressed so as to present a diameter of two to one. Yuranigh brought me
one specimen which he said was "pine;" (Callitris), which so far
confirmed what has hitherto been observed of the coniferous character of
Australian fossil woods; but, from the appearance of other specimens, I
am not at all convinced that these fossils are all of that description. I
left these beautiful regions with feelings of regret, that the direct
route to the gulf, could not be carried through them. I was rather at a
loss for names of reference to these parts. I had given the name of
Claude to the river; and it occurred to me, that the scenery of the
Mantuan bard, which this painter has so finely illustrated with pastoral
subjects, deserved a congenial name; and that this country might,
therefore, be distinguished by that of the Mantuan Downs and Plains.
About half-way through our former stage, I found water in ponds which had
been formerly dry; and there we encamped, our animals being almost
exhausted. It is one redeeming quality of brigalow scrub, that water is
to be found within its recesses, at times when all other channels or
sources are dry; the soil in which it grows being stiff, retentive, and
usually bare of vegetation. Thermometer at sunrise, 28 deg.; at noon, 73 deg.; at
4 P.M., 78 deg.; at 9, 47 deg.;--with wet bulb, 42 deg..
3D SEPTEMBER.--Another morning worthy of "Eden in her earliest hour." The
thermometer 31 deg. at day-break, with a little dew. The notes of the magpie
or GYMNORHINA, resounded through the shady brigalow, and the rich browns
and reddish greens of that prolific bush contrasted with its dense grey
shades, were very beautiful. We found the Nogoa much in the same state as
when we left it. No flood had come down the channel of that river. The
tracks of the feet of many natives were visible along the old route, and
bushes had been burnt all along the line; but it is remarkable that in no
case had they injured or defaced the letters and numerals marked on trees
at the various camps, nor disturbed our temporary bridges. We cut our way
through a scrub of brigalow, thus passing camps XLVIII., XLVII., and
XLVI., encamping at a short distance from the latter of these places.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 31 deg.; at noon, 74 deg.; at 4 P. M., 75 deg.; at 9, 52 deg.;
with wet bulb, 40 deg..
4TH SEPTEMBER.--The surrounding grass, and also the reeds in the lake,
had been very extensively burnt along our former tracks, and a green crop
was springing to the great gratification and refreshment of our cattle.
Formerly this splendid valley appeared to be uninhabited, but this day,
proofs were not wanting that it was too charming a spot of earth to be
left so. In proceeding over an open part of the plains bordering the
river, we perceived a line of about twelve or fourteen natives before
they had observed us. Through my glass, I saw they were painted red about
the face, and that there were females amongst them. They halted on seeing
us, but some soon began to run, while two very courageously and
judiciously took up a position on each side of a reedy swamp, evidently
with the intention of covering the retreat of the rest. The men who ran
had taken on their backs the heavy loads of the gins, and it was rather
curious to see long-bearded figures stooping under such loads. Such an
instance of civility, I had never before witnessed in the Australian
natives towards their females; for these men appeared to carry also some
of the uncouth-shaped loads like mummies. The two acting as a rear guard
behaved as if they thought we had not the faculty of sight as well as
themselves, and evidently believed that by standing perfectly still, and
stooping slowly to a level with the dry grass, when we passed nearest to
them, they could deceive us into the idea that they were stumps of burnt
trees. After we had passed, they were seen to enter the brigalow, and
make ahead of us; by which movement I learnt that part of the tribe was
still before us. Some time afterwards, we overtook that portion when
crossing an open interval of the woods; they made for the scrub on seeing
us. Meanwhile columns of smoke ascended in various directions before us,
and two natives beyond the river, were seen to set up a great blaze
there. To the westward of the beautifully broken rocky woody range beyond
Lake Salvator, a dense smoke also arose, and continued until evening;
thus adding much sublimity to the effect of a gorgeous sunset, which
poured its beams through the smoke between the rocky pinnacles, as I sat
drawing the scene at my camp by the lake, two miles northward of XLV.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 26 deg.; at noon, 67 deg.; at 4 P.M., 65 deg.; at 9, 39 deg.;--
with wet bulb, 32 deg..
5TH SEPTEMBER.--The cooler air reminded us that we had returned to a more
elevated region than that on the Belyando. This morning heavy clouds of
cumulostratus promised more rain, and gave a cool day for the last effort
of the jaded animals, which the driver doubted could not be driven much
farther. I cut off all the roundabouts and steep pulls, where this could
be done, by laying logs across such gullies as we were obliged to cross.
We thus saw more of the river and its romantic scenery, which well
deserved the name of a painter. No natives, nor columns of smoke, were
seen this day; and I concluded that they concentrated the tribe
yesterday, and had departed this morning. We finally took up a very snug
position near the pyramids, in the very gorge of the mountain valley by
which we had approached this country; camp XLVI. being within sight, and
the swamp with the spring, at the foot of this hill on which we now
encamped, as a camp of occupation during my intended absence, on an
excursion with horses only, to the north-west. The genial influence of
spring had already induced many plants to show their colours, which had
formerly been passed by us unnoticed. In the sandy soil, grew the purple-
flowered CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; THE ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; the pink-
flowered CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA; and a species of CALYTRIX; these two
forming small shrubs, the latter from four to six feet high. A very
handsome new BORONIA, with large white and red downy flowers, here first
appeared in the open forest.[*] The rocks were partly covered with a
small white-flowered shrub, which proved to be a new species of
LEPTOSPERMUM allied to L. PUBESCENS, but perfectly distinct.[**] At the
foot of them, was found the AOTUS MOLLIS, a little hoary bush, with
yellow black flowers; a santalaceous plant like CHORETRUM, forming a tree
fifteen or twenty feet high: the CALLITRIS GLAUCA or CUPRESSUS GLAUCA of
ALL. CUNN. (in Hook. Herb.). A small tree, about twenty-five feet high,
proved to be a new species of Acacia, or possibly a variety of A.
CUNNINGHAMII, but handsomer, with larger phyllodia, longer spikes of
flowers, and everywhere clothed with a soft velvety pubescence.[***]
Thermometer, at sunrise, 33 deg.; at noon, 68 deg.; at 4 P. M., 64 deg.; at 9, 40 deg.;--
with wet bulb, 31 deg..
[* B. ERIANTHA (Lindl. MS.); foliis pinnatis cum impari 1-3-jugis,
foliolis glaberrimis linearibus retusis emarginatisque laevibus,
pedunculis solitariis unifloris axillaribus foliis brevioribus, sepalis
triangularibus glabris, petalis tomentosis, staminibus 8.]
[** L. SERICATUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis obovatis linearibus planis obtusis
aveniis impunctatis utrinque sericeis, calycibus tomentosis dentibus
acutis persistentibus.]
[*** A. LONGISPICATA (Benth. MS.) pube brevi mollissima vestita, ramulis
elevato-angulatis, phyllodiis amplis falcatis utrinque angustatis
subcoriaceis tenuiter striato-multinervibus nervis 3-5 validioribus,
spicis elongato-cylindricis densis, calyce dentato corolla 2-3-plo
breviore, ovario villoso.]
Chapter VII.
PREPARATIONS FOR A RIDE TO THE NORTH-WEST.--DESPATCH LEFT WITH THE PARTY
STATING WHAT HAD BEEN DONE.--ASCEND EAST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.--
PASSAGE TO THE WESTWARD.--NAME OF THE WARREGASCERTAINED.--THE RIVER
NIVE.--ITS COURSE TURNS SOUTHWARD.--CROSS A LOW RANGE.--PLAINS OF THE
VICTORIA DISCOVERED.--EXTENSIVE DOWNS TRAVERSED.--RIVER SPREADS INTO
VARIOUS CHANNELS.--TRIBUTARIES JOIN IT FROM THE N. E. OR RIGHT BANK.--THE
RIVER ALICE.--NATIVE CAMP.--A TRIBE SURPRISED WHILE BATHING.--LOWEST
POINT OF THE RIVER REACHED.--RETURN BY THE LEFT BANK.--TRIBUTARIES FROM
THE SOUTH.--GOWEN RANGE.--ENTER OUTWARD TRACK.--PROVISIONS EXHAUSTED.--
ASCEND WEST SHOULDER OF MOUNT PLUTO.--RETURN TO THE CAMP AT THE
PYRAMIDS.--NEW PLANTS COLLECTED THERE DURING MY ABSENCE.
6TH AND 7TH SEPTEMBER.--It being necessary to rest and refresh the horses
for a few days before setting out with the freshest of them, all being
leg-weary, I determined to halt here four clear days; and during these
two, I completed my maps, and took a few rough sketches of scenery within
a few miles of the camp. The whole of the grass had been assiduously
burnt by the natives, and a young crop was coming up. This rendered the
spot more eligible for our camp, both because the young grass was highly
relished by the cattle, and because no dry grass remained to be set fire
to, which, in the case of any hostility on the part of the natives, is
usually the first thing they do. Thermometer, at sunrise, 33 deg.; at noon,
68 deg.; at 4 P.M., 64 deg.; at 9, 40 deg.;--with wet bulb, 31 deg..
8TH AND 9TH SEPTEMBER.--I employed my time these two days in writing a
despatch to the governor of New South Wales, giving a detailed account of
my proceedings and discoveries down to the present time; that in the
event of any misfortune befalling me or the very small party now to
accompany me, this despatch should be forthcoming, as I intended to leave
it at this depot camp. On the 8th, heavy clouds gathered over us, and a
fine heavy shower fell, a circumstance most auspicious for our intended
ride; but it was of brief duration; and, although the sky continued
overcast even until the evening of the 9th, no rain fell, in sufficient
quantity to fill the water-courses. It was, however, enough to produce
dew for some mornings to come. Thermometer, at sunrise of the 8th, 53 deg.;
at noon, 55 deg.; at 4 P. M., 57 deg.; at 9, 50 deg.;--with wet bulb, 46 deg.; and at
sunrise of the 9th, 39 deg.; at noon, 77 deg.; at 4 P.M., 70 deg.; at 9, 52 deg.;--with
wet bulb, 45 deg..
10TH SEPTEMBER.--I set out on a fine clear morning, with two men and
Yuranigh mounted, and leading two pack-horses carrying my sextant, false
horizon, and a month's provisions. Returning, still up the valley, along
our old track to Camp XLIII., I there struck off to the S.W., following
up a similar valley, which came down from that side. This valley led very
straight towards Mount Pluto, the nearest of the three volcanic cones,
which I had already intersected from various points. The other two I had
named Mount Hutton and Mount Playfair. These three hills formed an
obtuse-angled triangle, whereof the longest side was to the north-west,
and, therefore, I expected that there the elevated land might be found to
form an angle somewhat corresponding with the directions of the two
shorter sides; in which case, it was probable that, to the westward of
such an angle in the range, I might find what had been so long the object
of these researches, viz., a river flowing to the Gulf of Carpentaria. We
reached Mount Pluto, at the distance given by my former observations as
far as could be ascertained by the mode of measurement I employed then;
which was by counting my horse's paces. On ascending the mountain on
foot, I found a deep chasm still between me and the western summit, which
was not only the highest, but the only part clear of bushes. A thick and
very thorny scrub had already so impeded my ascent, that the best portion
of the afternoon was gone, before I could return to the horses; and I
resolved, therefore, to continue my ride, and to defer the ascent and
observation of angles from the summit, until my return from the unknown
western country, which we were about to explore; the search for water
that night being an object of too much importance to be longer deferred.
We, accordingly, passed on by the southward and westward of the mountain,
following a watercourse, which led first N. W., then north, and next E.
of N.; to where it at length joined one from the west, up which I turned,
and continued the search for water until darkness obliged us to halt.
During that search for water, my horse fell with me into a deep hole, so
concealed and covered with long grass, that we both wholly disappeared
from those following; and yet, strange to say, without either of us being
in the least hurt. We encamped where there was, at least, good grass;
but--no water.
11TH SEPTEMBER.--Within 400 yards of the spot where we had slept, we
found a small pond. The water was of that rich brown tint so well known
to those with whom water is most precious, and to whom, after long
custom, clear water seems, like some wines, to want body. Here we had
breakfast, and we took also a bagful of water[*] with us. This timely
supply relieved me from the necessity for following up the windings of
some water-course; and I could proceed in a straight direction, westward.
We passed, at first, through rather thick scrub, until, at length, I
perceived a sharp pic before me, which I ascended. It consisted of trap
rock, as did also the range to which it belonged, being rather a lateral
feature thereof. Mount Hutton, Mount Pluto, and Mount Playfair, were all
visible from it, as were also Mounts Owen and Faraday. The connections
extended westward; for to the W.N.W. the broken cliffs at the head of the
Salvator and the Claude, were not very distant, and these I was careful
to avoid. A range immediately westward of this cone, was higher than it,
and extended from Mount Playfair. To cross that range at its lowest part,
which bore 26 deg. W. of S., was our next object. We found the range covered
with brigalow and other still more impervious scrubs. On the crest, the
rock consisted of clay ironstone. The centigrade thermometer stood, at
noon, at 30 deg. 5' equal to 87 deg., of Fahrenheit; the height above the sea we
made 2032 feet. Beyond this crest, we encountered a scrub of matted
vines, which hung down like ropes, and pulled some of us off our horses,
when it happened that any of these ropes were not observed in time in
riding through the thicket. A very dense forest of young Callitris trees
next impeded us, and were more formidable than even the vines. The day
was passed in forcing our way through these various scrubs, the ground
declining by a gentle slope only. We next found firmer soil underfoot,
that where the Callitris scrub grew having been sandy, and we saw at
length, with a feeling of relief, that only brigalow scrub was before us;
we ascended gravelly hills, came upon a dry water-course, and then on a
chain of ponds. Near one of these ponds, sate an old woman, beside a
fire, of course, although the weather was very warm; and a large net,
used for taking emus, hung on a brigalow bush close by. The men were
absent, looking for food, as we partly conjectured, for little could
Yuranigh make out of what she said, besides the names of some rivers, to
which I could point with the hand. I was surprised to find that here, the
name for water was "Narran," the name for it in the district of the
Balonne being "Nadyeen," whereas the word for water amongst the tribes of
the Darling is Kalli. That the "Narran" river and swamp are named from
this language of tribes now dwelling much further northward, seems
obvious; and, as the natives on the Darling know little of the "Narran"
or its swamp, it may be inferred that there the migration of native
tribes has been progressive from south to north; the highest known land
in Australia being also to the southward of the Darling. The chain of
ponds, according to the old woman, was named "Cunno," and ran into the
"Warreg" which, as she pointed, was evidently the name of the river we
had formerly traced downwards from near Mount P. P. King. I left the
"Cunno," and plunged into the brigalow to the northward, thus crossing a
slightly elevated range, where we found a little water-course falling
N.N.W. By following this downwards, we found water in it, as twilight
grew obscure, and gladly halted beside it for the night, in latitude 25 deg.
S.
[* A thick flour-bag covered outside with melted mutton-fat.]
12TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the thermometer was 59 deg.; our height then above
the sea has been ascertained to have been 1787 feet. Continuing to follow
down the brigalow creek, we found that it joined a chain of ponds running
N.E., and these we traced in the contrary direction, or upwards, as far
as seemed desirable. We struck off from that water-course, first to the
N.W., then to the W., arriving soon at a steep low ridge of clay
ironstone, which was covered thick with brigalow. We crossed that low
ridge, and, at a distance of about a mile and a half beyond, met another
acclivity still more abrupt and stony. This we also ascended, and found
upon it a "malga" scrub: the "malga" being a tree having hard spiky dry
branches, which project like fixed bayonets, to receive the charge of
ourselves, horses, and flour-bags; but all which formidable array we
nevertheless successfully broke through, and arrived at the head of a
rocky gully, falling N.W. Down this, however, we attempted in vain to
pass, and in backing out we again faced the "malga," until, seeing a flat
on the right, I entered it, and there fell in with the water-course
again. It led us many miles, generally in a N.W. direction, and contained
some fine ponds, and entered, at length, a little river, whose banks were
thickly set with large yarra trees. The general course of this river was
W.N.W., until it was joined by one coming from the N., and at the
junction there was a deep broad pond of clear water. At this we watered
our horses, and passed on to encamp under some rocky hills, three
quarters of a mile to the N.N.W. of that junction, in latitude 24 deg. 52'
50" S. The temperature at noon this day, on the highest part of the ridge
we crossed, was 84 deg.; the height there above the sea, 1954 feet; and at 3
P.M., in channel of water-course, the thermometer stood at 89 deg.; the
height there above the sea being 1778 feet.
13TH SEPTEMBER.--At 7 A.M. the thermometer stood at 38 deg.; the height above
the sea was found to be 1659 feet. I verily believed that THIS river
would run to Carpentaria, and I called it the Nive, at least as a
conventional name until the native name could be ascertained, in
commemoration of Lord Wellington's action on the river of that name; and,
to the tributary from the north, I gave the name of Nivelle. Pursuing the
united channel downwards, we traversed fine open grassy plains. The air
was fragrant from the many flowers then springing up, especially where
the natives had burnt the grass. Among them were MORGANIA GLABRA;
EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII; a singular little POLYGONUM with the aspect of a
TILLOEA; two very distinct little FRANKENIAS[*], and a new scabrous
HALORAGIS with pinnatifid leaves.[**] The extensive burning by the
natives, a work of considerable labour, and performed in dry warm
weather, left tracts in the open forest, which had become green as an
emerald with the young crop of grass. These plains were thickly imprinted
with the feet of kangaroos, and the work is undertaken by the natives to
attract these animals to such places. How natural must be the aversion of
the natives to the intrusion of another race of men with cattle: people
who recognise no right in the aborigines to either the grass they have
thus worked from infancy, nor to the kangaroos they have hunted with
their fathers. No, nor yet to the emus they kill FOR their fathers ONLY;
these birds being reserved, or held sacred, for the sole use of the old
men and women!
[* F. SCABRA (Lindl. MS.); undique scabro-tomentosa, foliis linearibus
margine revolutis non ciliatis, floribus solitariis pentameris, calycibus
patentim pilosis. F. SERPYLLIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); tomentosa hispida,
foliis oblongis planis longe ciliatis, floribus solitariis subcapitatis
pentameris, calycibus patentim hispidis.]
[** H. ASPERA (Lindl. MS.) caule angulato foliis fructuque scabris,
foliis alternis oppositisque linearibus acutis apice pinnatifidis,
floribus distanter spicatis monoicis pendulis, stigmatibus plumosis,
fructu subgloboso.]
The river pursued a course to the southward of west for nine miles, but
it turned afterwards southward, eastward, and even to the northward of E.
After tracing it thus twenty-two miles, without seeing any water in its
bed (which was broad, but every where choked with sand), we were obliged
to encamp, and endure this privation after a very warm and laborious day.
Where the natives obtained water themselves, quite puzzled Yuranigh, for
we passed by spacious encampments of theirs, and tracts they had set fire
to, where trees still lay smoking.
14TH SEPTEMBER.--The temperature at 7 this morning was 72 deg. of Fahrenheit;
the height above the sea, of the river bed, as subsequently determined by
Captain King, 1470 feet. With the earliest light, I had laid down my
survey of this river, by which the course appeared to have turned towards
the S.E. This not being what was desired, I took a direct northerly
course through the scrub, towards a hill on the left bank, whence I had
seen, on our way down, a rocky gap to the N.W. in a brigalow range. After
a ride of eight miles, by which we cut off the grand curve in the river's
course, we arrived at this hill. I hoped to have found water near the
spot, in a sharp turn in the river which I had not examined, and near
which, on the day before, I had seen two emus, under a bank covered with
brigalow scrub. Nor was I disappointed, for after finding traces of a
recent current into the river-bed at that point, I discovered, at less
than a hundred yards up, a fine pond of precious OPAL--I mean not
crystal, but that fine bluey liquid which I found always so cool and
refreshing when it lay on clay in the shady recesses of brigalow scrubs,
a beverage much more grateful to our taste than the common "crystal
spring." Here, then, we watered our impatient horses, and enjoyed a wash
and breakfast--the men (two old soldiers) being D'ACCORD in one sentiment
of gratitude to a bountiful Providence for this water. Like "a giant
refreshed with wine," we next set out for the gap to the north-west, and
passed through an open brigalow scrub, ascending very gradually, during a
ride of three miles, to where I at length could discover that the fall
was in the other direction. At this point, I observed the barometer,
which indicated our height above the sea to be 1812 feet. Fahrenheit's
thermometer stood then (5 P.M.) at 86 deg.. The dry channel of a water-course
had afforded us an opening through the scrub, and had also guided us to
the highest part of the ground. The fresh prints of the feet of three men
in the smooth bare sand, told us that the same natives whose track
Yuranigh had seen in the river we traced yesterday, were now going in the
same direction as ourselves, and just before us; for the smell of their
burning fire-sticks, and even small portions of burning embers which had
dropped, made this evident. The higher ground was flat, and on it the
rosewood acacia grew amongst the brigalow. The rocky gap (in a ridge) was
still distant at least three miles; the sun nearly set, and not a blade
of grass visible amongst the brigalow bushes. But what was all this to
the romantic uncertainty as to what lay beyond! With eager steps we
followed a slight channel downwards; found that it descended more rapidly
than the one by which we had ascended; that it also increased, and we
were guided by it into a little valley, verdant with young grass, while
yet the red sky over a departed sun shone reflected from several broad
ponds of water. This seemed to us a charming spot, so opportunely and
unexpectedly found, and we alighted on a fine grassy flat by the margin
of a small lagoon, where stood a most graceful group of bushes for
shelter or shade. After sunset, the sky was overcast with very heavy
clouds; the air was sultry, and we expected rain.