Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia - Thomas Mitchell
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23RD OCTOBER.--We were obliged to halt, and await the arrival of the
drays, which only took place at 1/2 past 11, A.M. The cattle were found to
be so fat and fresh, that the drivers could not get them along faster.
Mr. Stephenson obtained a specimen of the dove observed by me on the
Victoria. (GEOPALIA CUNEATA). I had heard the note in the woods, and
directed his attention to it. The SWANSONIA CORONILLOEFOLIA adorned the
rich flats with its crimson pear-shaped blossoms, and the CROTALARIA
DISSITIFLORA, was also in flower, but smaller than usual; more rigid,
with a denser silky pubescence, and smaller, shorter leaflets. The SIDA
(Abutilon) FRAZERI (Hook. M S.)[*] and also the CLEMATIS STENOPHYLLA[**],
were found on this part of the river. Thermometer, at sunrise, 48 deg.; at
noon, 91 deg.; at 4 P. M., 93 deg.; at 9, 65 deg.;--with wet bulb, 53 deg..
[* S. (ABUTILON) FRASERI (Hook. MS.); tota stellato-pubescens, foliis
ovatiscordatis acutis argute crenato-serratis, petiolo folium aequante,
pedunculis axillaribus solitariis unifloris apicem versus articulatis,
calycis 5-partiti segmentis ovato-lanceolatis.--SIDA DUMOSA, J. Backhouse
MS. in Hook. Herb. (not Swartz). This has a most extensive range; having
been found at Moreton Bay by Mr. Backhouse, at Brisbane River by Fraser
and Smith, and in other parts of this colony by All. Cunningham.]
[** C. STENOPHYLLA Fraser in Hook. Herb. C. OCCIDENTALIS A. Cunn. in
Hook. Herb.--Very nearly allied to C. MICROPHYLLA of De Cand. Syst. i. p.
147. but in that the carpels are said to be glabrous.]
24TH OCTOBER.--Soon after leaving the camp this morning, we entered upon
an open country, the downs extending before us from the right bank of the
river, the course of which was somewhat to the eastward of south. The
cattle came on faster this day, and we encamped on the skirts of the
plain, near a fine reach of water in the river. We were now upwards of
twenty miles to the westward of Bindango, with abundance of water;
whereas I had always looked back to much difficulty in returning by that
route, as the ponds near it were likely to be dried up. I had seen the
higher parts of these downs from the summit of Bindango, but did not then
suspect that a large river was in the midst of them, whose course was so
favourable for a traveller proceeding northward. The discovery of these
extensive downs was an important incident in this journey, watered as
they were by a fine river; especially as the country to the N. W. was
open or thinly wooded, and likely to be found so as far as the central
downs and plains on the banks of the river Victoria. A new and very
remarkable Ventilago was found this day.[*] I now again numbered the
camps, continuing the series backwards, by a different character; this
was numbered 77; the last, 76. The utility of these numbers along our
surveyed line will be admitted, when the country is taken up, as they
will not only serve to identify localities with the map, but may also
enable the land-surveyors to connect local surveys with the general map
of the country. The sky was overcast with thunder-clouds in the
afternoon, and the mercurial column was low; but no rain fell, and a
clear starry sky, at 9 P. M., admitted of our observations as usual.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 53 deg.; at noon, 85 deg.; at 4 P. M., 83 deg.; at 9, 58 deg.;--
with wet bulb, 47 deg.. Height above the sea, 1295 feet. (Camp 77.)
[* V. VIMINALIS (Hook. MS.); foliis anguste elongato-lanceolatis
integerrimis nervis costa parallelis, paniculis axillaribus
terminalibusque.--The other hitherto known species of the genus, have
broad leaves, more or less denticulate, with patent nerves. The flowers
and fruit entirely accord with those of the genus.--W. J. H. "Tree 20
feet high, growing on high sandy ridges."]
25TH OCTOBER.--We continued in the direction of a column of smoke I had
perceived yesterday, believing that there I should intersect the river,
or at least find water. We found the open downs at length, hemmed in by
ACACIA PENDULA, growing openly; but which gave place to a scrub, as we
approached some ridges. These ridges consisted of red gravel; the scrub
contained callitris, casuarina, silver-leaved iron-bark, malga and
brigalow, the two latter growing so thickly as to compel me to turn
eastward to avoid them. This elevated rocky ground was found more
extensive than I had expected, throwing down many water-courses to the
east and north-east; but, at length, we made the river, and encamped
after a journey of 10 1/3 miles. It there ran through a deep valley, due
south, with a broad channel, in which we found a reach of water covered
with ducks. The country beyond it, to the eastward, over which our former
route passed, appeared like high table-land in bluey distance; but
neither of the mountains Bindango or Bindyego were visible from the
country traversed by the party this day. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43 deg.; at
noon, 81 deg.; at 4 P. M., 94 deg.; at 9, 65 deg.;--with wet bulb, 51 deg.. Height above
the sea, 1186 feet. (Camp 78.)
26TH OCTOBER.--A river coming into the Maranoa, about a mile from our
camp, was apparently the river Amby; but without having traced its course
throughout, I could not feel certain of this, after all I had seen of
these rivers: I think this was the same, however. We kept the Maranoa on
our left during the whole of this day's journey, and were thus able to
pursue a tolerably straight line in the direction of about 20 deg. E. of S.
At length, arriving at the junction of an important tributary from the N.
W., full of water, and seeing another also join from the east, I crossed
the main channel and encamped on the left bank, in sight of a reach of
broad blue water below the junction, of an extent which reminded us of
the Balonne itself. The valley of the river seemed bounded by continuous
ranges of high land, which looked in the back-ground like table-land.
Recently, much grass and bushes had been burnt, along the banks of the
river, by the natives; and we this day passed over a tract where the
grass was still in a blaze on both sides of us. Crows and hawks hovered
over the flames, apparently intent on depriving the devouring clement of
whatever prey more properly belonged to them. In a dry part of the bed of
the river, I met with many instances of a singular habit of the eelfish
(JEWFISH) PLOTOSUS TANDANUS.[*] I had previously observed, elsewhere, in
the aquatic weeds growing in extensive reaches, clear circular openings,
showing white parts of the bottom, over which one or two fishes
continually swam round in circles. I now found in the dry bed, that such
circles consisted of a raised edge of sand, and were filled with stones,
some as large as a man's closed fist. Yuranigh told me that this was the
nest of a pair of these fish, and that they carried the stones there, and
made it. The general bed of the river where I saw these nests, consisted
wholly of deep firm sand; and that the fish had some way of carrying or
moving stones to such spots, seemed evident, but for what purpose I could
not discover. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56 deg.; at noon, 83 deg.; at 4 P. M.,
93 deg.; at 9, 75 deg.;--with wet bulb, 59 deg..
[* See Pl. 6. fig. 2. p. 44. vol. i. of Three Expeditions.]
27TH OCTOBER.--We now travelled along the left bank of the river, and
found the country tolerably open. The ADRIANIA ACERIFOLIA grew on an
islet in the river.[*] This still pursued a remarkably straight course,
and contained abundance of water. After passing over a place where the
bush was on fire, we saw a female in the act of climbing a tree. When she
had ascended about eight feet, she remained stationary, looking at us
without any appearance of dismay. I continued to pursue a straight-
forward course, but told Yuranigh to inquire, EN PASSANT, what was the
name of the river; to which question she replied, in his own language,
"The name of that water is Maranoa:" thus confirming the name we had
already understood, however indirectly, to be that of the river. It
proved the accuracy of my servant Brown's ear, for it was first
communicated to him, during my absence, by the old chief at Bindango. The
gin appeared to be climbing in search of honey. To state that this female
wore no sort of clothing, were superfluous to any reader of this journal
who may have been in such interior parts of Australia. After travelling
about fourteen miles, we came upon a fine reach of the river, and
encamped beside it. Thermometer, at sunrise, 59 deg.; at noon, 68 deg.; at 4 P.
M., 95 deg.; at 9, 77 deg.;--wet bulb, 65 deg.. Height above the sea, 832 feet.
(Camp 80.)
[* A. ACERIFOLIA (CROTON ACERIFOLIUM All. Cunn. MS.); foliis cordato-
ovatis trifidis segmentis acuminatis grosse inaequaliter sinuato-
serratis, subtus bracteisque pubescenti-tomentosis.--Shrub three feet
high. Flowers scarlet. Collected by Allan Cunningham along the Lachlan
river.]
28TH OCTOBER.--Heavy rain was falling soon after day-break, and I most
willingly sat still in my tent, hoping the rain would continue. Just in
sight of it grew a picturesque tree: the half-dead, half-alive aspect
presented by the same sort of tree, was not unfrequent in the Australian
woods; and I was induced to sketch this specimen, as highly
characteristic of the scenery. These trees, "so wither'd and so wild in
their attire," generally appear under the shelter of other taller trees;
have half their branches dead, the part still in foliage drooping like
the willow, the leaf being very small. It is an Acacia (A. VARIANS), and
I was informed by Yuranigh that it is the Upas of Australia; the natives
call it "Goobang," and use a bough of it to poison the fish in
waterholes. They are too honest and fair in their fights to think of
poisoning their weapons. The aspect of this half-dead tree is certainly
characteristic of its deleterious qualities, in the wild romantic outline
resembling Shakspeare's lean, poison-selling apothecary,--
--"who dwelt about the very gates of death, Pale misery had worn him to
the bones."
Some good soaking rain fell until about 10 A. M., after which we had a
cool day and cloudy sky. The rain ensured to us at least dew on the grass
for a morning or two; and this, with the prospect of finding the channel
dry lower down, was a great advantage. Thermometer, at sunrise, 61 deg.; at
noon, 75 deg.; at 4 P. M., 76 deg.; at 9, 60 deg.;--wet bulb, 51 deg..
29TH OCTOBER.--A clear cool morning. We travelled this day with so much
ease, that we got over twenty miles without apparent fatigue, to bullocks
or horses. The necessity for travelling so far arose from the utter want
of water in the river bed. The course was very direct; the country was
open, and clothed with rich verdure on which our cattle could have
reposed, doubtless with great satisfaction, both to themselves and
drivers, had water also been at hand; but after travelling over, and
measuring twenty miles, we were obliged to encamp without any. As this
seemed only a branch of the river. I sent Corporal Graham to ascertain
what was beyond, while I, with Yuranigh, examined this channel backwards.
We found no water in either direction, but Corporal Graham discovered the
main channel at a mile and a half westward from our camp, and traced it
to near the junction with the ana-branch on which we were encamped. We
discovered this day a club and shield, such as the natives use on the
Belyando, carefully put away upon a sort of scaffold of bark, and covered
with bark. The shield was made of very light wood, the face being
rounded, and having been covered with a dark varnish like japan; for
which the surface had been made rough by crossed lines, resembling those
made on the first coat of plaster. It was evident, from the marks on this
shield, that the clubs were frequently used as missiles.[*] Each man of
the tribe that visited my camp on the Belyando, carried three or four of
these, but no shields; a plain indication that they were not then armed
for war against other aborigines. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36 deg.; at noon,
68 deg.; at 4 P.M., 73 deg.; at 9, 49 deg.;--with wet bulb, 40 deg..
[* Deposited in the British Museum (60, 61.).]
30TH OCTOBER.--We were now fifty-two miles from the junction of the dry
channel we crossed by the Balonne, and forty from the nearest part of our
former route, in advancing into this country. The risk of want of water
was worth encountering in the most direct line homewards, which was by
following down this river. I travelled, as straight as the bush would
allow, towards the junction; Graham examining the channel while we
proceeded. No water was found where the rivers united. Having halted the
small party with me, I followed one branch many miles with Yuranigh, but
all we could find were some wells, dug by natives, in a part of the sandy
bed; in one of which Yuranigh found, by a long bough he thrust in, that
there was moisture about five feet below the surface. I returned,
determined to encamp near this, and dig a well. The bullock teams had
also arrived when I returned to the party, and I learnt that Drysdale,
having observed that my little dog Procyon came in wet, had been led to
the discovery of a lagoon about three miles back, at which the cattle had
been already watered. I immediately encamped. At finding water the dog
was most expert, the native next, we inferior to both. We had come about
fifteen miles, and I wished to lay down the journey on the map. On doing
this, I found we had at length attained a point from whence, in case of
necessity, we could go as far as the Balonne, even if no water were found
in the country intervening, the direct distance being under forty miles.
During the afternoon, a still larger lagoon was found, higher up than the
first. I resolved to give the cattle a day's rest, and then to proceed
prepared, by well watering them previously, to travel on to the Balonne,
but not with much expectation that scarcity of water would oblige us to
go so far. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34 deg.; at noon, 70 deg.; at 4 P. M., 78 deg.;
at 9, 60 deg.;--with wet bulb, 46 deg..
31ST OCTOBER.--Two men were sent to the westward, where they found a dry
sandy country with pines, the same as that seen by me on my first ride
from St. George's bridge to the N.W., on the 18th of April. I was myself
engaged at the camp, on my general map of the country. Thermometer, at
sunrise, 33 deg.; at noon, 81 deg.; at 4 P. M., 84 deg.; at 9, 51 deg.--wet bulb, 43 deg..
Height above the sea, 882 feet.
1ST NOVEMBER.--The cattle and horses, having been all night loose beside
Drysdale's ponds, were brought in early, and we then proceeded. After
travelling about eight miles, over ground bearing traces of inundation,
and looking, as we proceeded, into the river channel for water, Yuranigh
found a lagoon in a hollow parallel to the river, and I encamped,
resolved to reduce as much as possible the distance to be traversed in
uncertainty about finding water. We had, however, found rocky ridges on
the left, like bergs to the river; and the voices of natives in the
woods, as well as these ridges, redeemed the country from the aspect of
drought. This was but a small portion of the fine pastoral country,
traversed by this river, where we found the channel dry; and I think this
want was compensated by many lagoons and watercourses in that back
country extending to the little river from Mount Abundance, the Cogoon.
2D NOVEMBER.--After watering all the animals, we went forward, prepared
to go on to the Balonne, even if we should meet with no water until we
arrived at that river. We found, however, that the country we were to
traverse was well watered. Three miles on from our camp, the country
appeared quite verdant, and park-like in its woods. The channel of the
river was bordered with green reeds, and contained a deep reach of
sparkling water. The river took a turn to the eastward, and, in the angle
formed by its again turning south, a little tributary entered it from the
north, which was full of ponds of water, and had not long ceased to run.
This came from the rocky tract situated between our old line of route,
along the little river Cogoon near Mount First View, and the Maranoa. The
water now found supplied the only link wanting in our explored line along
the last mentioned river, and I had no doubt that, by crossing that
country more directly towards the upper part of the Maranoa, a supply
would be found at convenient stages. On crossing the little tributary
(which I called Requisite Ponds), we found that the river resumed its
straight course towards the Balonne; and, in latitude 27 deg. 31' 37" S., we
again saw green reeds and a good pond, beside which we encamped.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 50 deg.; at noon, 76 deg.; at 4 P. M., 79 deg.; at 9, 63 deg.;
--with wet bulb, 61 deg.. (Camp 82.) Height above the sea, 969 feet.
3D NOVEMBER.--The river accompanied us but a short way this day, as I had
determined to follow a straight line towards the junction with the
Balonne, aware that the course of the river, for ten or twelve miles
above that point, turned very much to the westward. We passed through
much open forest, and over much sandy ground, on which the callitris
always appeared to predominate. Little scrub lay in our way. At length,
plains again appeared before us through the trees; and, beyond them,
after travelling twenty-two miles, we saw before us the river line,
running north-east. We crossed it, and still continued to travel on
towards the main river; but night overtook us when not far distant from
it, so that we were obliged to encamp within the distance of a mile and a
half, after a journey, with carts, of 261/2 miles. Here occurred the only
Epiphyte observed during the expedition. It was growing in the dead parts
of trees in the forest, and proved to be the CYMBIDIUM CANALICULATUM of
Brown. One of the specimens had a raceme of flowers above a foot long.
The fragrant JASMINUM MITCHELLII occurred, with narrower leaves than
usual, at the foot of the forest trees. JUSTICIA ADSCENDENS, an
inconspicuous weed, covered the plains in large tufts. The MELALEUCA
TRICHOSTACHYA was there; and on the plains, and in open forests, grew a
woolly. ANDROPOGON, which appeared not to be distinct from the A.
BOMBYCINUS. In the open forest grew, here and there, the delicate COESIA
OCCIDENTALIS, and on the plains a small species of HEDYOTIS; a new
CALOCEPHALUS in bunches[*], and a creeping plant, with yellow flowers,
since found to be a new species of GOODENIA.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise,
51 deg.; at noon, 85 deg.; at 4 P.M., 86 deg.; at 9, 66 deg.;--with wet bulb, 54 deg.. Height
above the sea, 819 feet.
[* C. GNAPHALIOIDES (Hook. MS.); annua erecta arachnoidea superne
dichotome ramosa, foliis linearibus, capitulorum glomerulis laxiusculis
corymbosis, involucri cylindracei squamis pellucidis albis.--Probably a
distinct genus.]
[** G. FLAGELLIFERA (de Vriese MS.); herbacea, glabra, foliis radicalibus
longe petiolatis, spathulatis, flagellis elongatis: floribus radicalibus,
axillaribus, longissime pedunculatis; calyce supero, quinquefido,
laciniis lineari-lanceolatis, bibracteolato; corolla bilabiata flava,
labio superiore fisso; fllamentis et antheris liberis; stigmatis indusio
ciliato; flagellis folii-et floriferis valde elongatis capsula
prismatica, biloculari; seminibus marginatis compressis; flagellis
floriferis; floribus in axilla folii ovatorotundati, auriculati,
subamplexicaulis, contentis, brevius pedunculatis.--Folia radicalia, 8-10
cent. longa, 11/2-2 cent. lata, apice rotundata, subrepandula, deorsum
attenuata, subdecurrentia, utrinque glaberrima, subtus pallidiora; folia
flagellorum bracteiformia, ovata, subrotunda, uno vel utroque latere
auriculata, alterutra auricula multo minore, floribus vero in bractearum
illarum axillis, reliquis multo minoribus neque ad normam perfectis,
brevius pedunculatis. Affinis species G. HEDERACEOE.--DE VR.]
4TH NOVEMBER.--At an early hour we proceeded, and had the satisfaction
soon to find our old wheeltracks along the bank of the majestic Balonne.
This truly noble river was here as broad as the Thames at Richmond; its
banks were verdant with a luxuriant crop of grass, and the merry notes of
numerous birds gave the whole scene a most cheering appearance;
especially to us who were again upon a route connected with home, and at
a point 200 miles nearer to it, than where we had last seen that route.
We had since made the discovery, and completed the survey, of the lower
Maranoa, a river which had brought us in a very straight direction back
to this point; and by tracing this down, we had established a well
watered line of route back to the fine regions we had discovered in the
more remote interior. I marked a tree at this camp (83.), which mark is
intended to show where this route turns towards the Maranoa x. being
marked at the next camp back along the old track. In the Balonne, huge
cod-fish (GRISTES PEELII) were caught this afternoon; indeed, we already
felt comparatively at home, although still far from the settled
districts, and strangers to all that had been passing in the world during
seven months. I was busy endeavouring to complete my maps before other
cares should divert my attention from the one subject that had occupied
it so long. But in perusing nature's own book, I could, at leisure, think
sometimes on many other subjects, and I fancied myself wiser than when I
set out,--much improved in health,--bronzed and bearded; sunproof, fly-
proof, and water-proof: that is to say, proof against the want of it,
"LUCUS A NON LUCENDO." Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.; at noon, 76 deg.; at 4
P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 71 deg.;--wet bulb, 59 deg.. Height above the sea, 738 feet.
5TH NOVEMBER.--We now travelled back along our old track towards Camp
VIII., at St. George's Bridge, where the first depot had been stationed;
the tracks of several horsemen, returning after rain, were visible along
our route, and the prints of natives' feet with them. How far these
parties had been further on, along the other route by which we had
advanced, we could not then ascertain. In the course of our ride this
day, we came suddenly upon two females, who were so busy digging roots on
a plain crossed by our track, that we were too near to admit of their
running off before they perceived us; they therefore remained on the spot
until we went up to them. They informed us, through Yuranigh, that "the
tracks were those of five white men on horseback, who had been
accompanied by natives on foot. They came there about one moon before
then, and had been looking very much all about; these females could not
think what for." We took up our old position, overlooking the rocky bed
of the river. Pieces of old iron had been left untouched by the natives,
both at this camp, and were found on our old track in returning. As these
articles were such as they could have made great use of, I considered
their leaving them a proof of their good disposition towards the
exploring party; and of the very favourable impression we had made
formerly on the aborigines, at the interview with the assembled tribes of
this river. In the scrubs adjacent, we found, for the first time, the
ripe fruit of the "Quandang" (FUSANUS ACUMINATUS), and several shrubs in
flower that we thought new to botany. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.; at
noon, 76 deg.; at 4 P.M., 85 deg.; at 9, 71 deg.;--wet bulb, 59 deg..
Chapter IX.
MR. KENNEDY SENT TO EXPLORE THE MOONI PONDS.--I COMPLETE THE MAPS.--
EXCESSIVE HEAT AGAIN.--NEW PLANTS FOUND.--MR. KENNEDY RETURNS--AFTER
SUFFERING MUCH FROM THE HEAT AND DROUGHT.--CORPORAL GRAHAM SENT WITH
DESPATCHES FOR THE GOVERNOR OF NEW SOUTH WALES.--THE PARTY CROSSES THE
BALONNE--BY ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE.--REACHES THE MOONI PONDS--OR RIVER.--
TRACKS OF CATTLE AND HORSES NUMEROUS.--A WHITE WOMAN MET WITH.--CATTLE
STATIONS.--HEAVY AND CONTINUED RAIN RETARDS THE PARTY.--FLOODS ALMOST
SURROUND THE CAMP.--THE WATERS KEPT BACK BY A DAM OF SAND.--AFTER
SEVENTEEN DAYS HALT, THE PARTY CROSSES FROM THE MOONI TO THE BARWAN.--A
FLOOD IN THE BARWAN.--PASSAGE WITH THE BOATS.--MUSQUITOES NUMEROUS AFTER
THE RAIN.--STRAY HORSES JOIN OURS.--THE MAAL ALSO FLOODED.--CROSS IT WITH
THE BOATS.--THE MEEI CROSSED.--CROSS OTHER BRANCHES OF THE GWYDIR.--
RECOGNISE MOUNT RIDDELL.--ENTER ON EXTENSIVE PLAINS.--SNODGRASS LAGOON.--
A YOUNG SQUATTER.--LEAVE THE PARTY IN CHARGE OF MR. KENNEDY.--RIDE
HOMEWARDS.
5TH to 9TH NOVEMBER.--These days I devoted to the protracting of angles
taken on the Victoria, and the last day to writing my despatch to the
Government; and on this morning (the 9th) I sent Mr. Kennedy, followed by
Corporal Graham and John Douglas, to examine the country in the direction
of the furthest point attained by me on my journey of 1831; that was on
the Barwan (Karaula) in latitude 29 deg. 2' S., and bearing about 20 deg. E. of
S. from this camp. A chain of ponds, called the "Mooni" ponds, were said
to water the intervening country, and I wished to ascertain whether they
were favourable for the connection of our recently explored route, with
the termination of that marked out by me in 1831, when my journey,
undertaken expressly with the same objects in view, was accidentally
frustrated.