Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia - Thomas Mitchell
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The part of the Bogan where least water can be found, has always been
that between our present camp and Muda, a very large lagoon about 50
miles lower down. I found by the barometer that there is a fall of 206
feet in that distance of 50 miles; whereas the fall in the bed of the
Bogan is only 50 feet between Muda and New Year's Range, in a distance of
upwards of 100 miles. The general course of the Bogan changes at Muda
from N.W. to north, the former being nearly in the direction of the
general declination of the country, the latter rather across it, of which
the overflowings of the parallel river Macquarie into Duck Creek, and
other channels to the westward, seemed to afford sufficient proofs. Where
the declination is least, the water is most likely to remain in ponds in
the channel of the river after floods, the water of which can neither
flow with so much velocity, nor bear down any of the obstructions by
which ponds are formed. Mr. Dixon found the velocity of the Bogan at this
part, during a flood in 1833, to be four miles in an hour; which is about
double the average rate of the larger rivers of Australia.
I had an order from Mr. Kerr, the proprietor of this station of
Derribong, to his superintendant, for such fat cattle as I might require
to take with me as live stock. Finding that the sheep answered very well,
having lost none, and that they rather improved in travelling, whereas
the working oxen had been much jaded and impoverished by the long
journey, heavy loads, and warm weather; I determined to take as many
young bullocks as might suffice to relieve and assist the others, and
break them in as we proceeded.
30TH DECEMBER.--The wind changed to S.E., and brought a cool morning.
Thermometer, 68 deg.. This day we selected from the herds of Mr. Kerr 32
young bullocks, and they were immediately yoked up in the stockyard.
Received letters from Sydney, by Corporal Graham.
31ST DECEMBER, 1845.--Thermometer at 5 A. M., 62 deg.: at noon, 109 deg.. Wind
S.E. At noon a whirlwind passed over the camp, fortunately avoiding the
tents in its course; but it carried a heavy tarpaulin into the air, also
some of the men's hats, and broke a half-hour sand-glass, much wanted for
the men on watch at night. The sky overcast from the west in the evening.
1ST JANUARY, 1846.--A strong wind from N.E. blew during the day, and was
very high at 11 A. M. The party were chiefly employed breaking in the
young bullocks. At noon, nimbus, and some rain, tantalised us with the
hope of a change; but the sky drew up into clouds of cumulus by the
evening. The vegetation of the Bogan now recalled former labours: the
ATRIPLEX SEMIBACCATA of Brown was a common straggling plant.
2D JANUARY.--The young cattle still occasioned delay. The morning was
cloudy and promised rain; but a N.W. wind broke through the clouds, which
resolved themselves into cirrostratus, and we had heat again. Besides the
SALSOLA AUSTRALIS, we found a HALGANIA with lilac flowers, probably
distinct from the species hitherto described, which are natives of the
south-west coast.
3D JANUARY.--This morning the young cattle were yoked up with the old;
and, after considerable delay, the party proceeded to some ponds in the
Bogan about five miles lower down. We were now nearly opposite to the
scene of Mr. Cunningham's disasters: I had recognised, amongst the first
hills I saw when on the Goobang Creek, the hill which I had named Mount
Juson, at his request, after the maiden name of his mother. The little
pyramid of bushes was no longer there, but the name of Cunningham was so
identified with the botanical history of almost all the shrubs in the
very peculiar scenery of that part of the country, that no other monument
seemed necessary. Other recollections recalled Cunningham to my mind; his
barbarous murder, and the uncertainty which still hung over the actual
circumstances attending it. The shrubs told indeed of Cunningham; of both
brothers, both now dead; but neither the shrubs named by the one, nor the
gloomy CASUARINOE trees that had witnessed the bloody deed, could tell
more. There the ACACIA PENDULA, first discovered and described by Allan,
could only
"Like a weeping mourner stooping stand, For ever silent, and for ever
sad."
4TH JANUARY.--The early cooler part of the morning was taken up with the
young cattle. It was now but too obvious that this means of conveyance
was likely to retard the journey to an extent that no pecuniary saving
would compensate, as compared with light carts and horses. I proceeded
forward in search of a deserted stockyard, called Tabbaratong, where some
water was said still to remain. We found some mud and water only;
although some that was excellent was found about two miles lower down the
Bogan, late in the evening.
We had crossed the neutral ground between the savage and the squatter.
The advanced posts of an army are not better kept, and humiliating proofs
that the white man had given way, were visible in the remains of dairies
burnt down, stockyards in ruins, untrodden roads. We hoped to find within
the territory of the native, ponds of clear water, unsoiled by cattle,
and a surface on which we might track our own stray animals, without
their being confused by the traces of others.
5TH JANUARY.--Three of the young cattle having escaped during the night,
retarded us in the morning until 8 o'clock, at which hour they were
brought into the camp, having been tracked by Yuranigh, a most useful
native who had come with us from Buree. I proceeded with the light carts,
guided by a very young native boy, not more than ten years old, who had
come with the party from Kerr's station, and who, being a native of the
lower Bogan, could tell us where water was likely to be found. Our route
was rather circuitous, chiefly to avoid a thick scrub of CALLITRIS and
other trees, which, having been recently burnt, presented spikes so
thickly set together, that any way round them seemed preferable to going
through. We reached plains, and came upon an old track of the squatters.
The grass in parts was green and rich. I could see no traces of my former
route, but we arrived at length at an open spot which Dicky, the young
native, said was "Cadduldury." Leaving Dr. Stephenson with the people
driving the light carts there, I proceeded towards the bed of the Bogan,
which was near, to see what water was there, and following the channel
downwards, I met with none. Still I rode on, accompanied by Piper (also
on horseback), and the dryness of the bed had forbidden further search,
but that I remembered the large ponds we had formerly seen at Bugabada
and Muda, which could not be far distant. But it was only after threading
the windings of the Bogan, in a ride of at least twelve miles, that we
arrived at the most eastern of the Bugabada ponds. The water was however
excellent, purer indeed than any we had seen for many days, and we
hastened back to the party at Cadduldury, which place we only arrived at
as darkness came on, so that Piper had nearly lost his way. The drays
with Mr. Kennedy had not come up, and I sent William Baldock and Yuranigh
back in haste to inform him that I was encamped without water, and that I
wished him, if still EN ROUTE, immediately to unyoke the cattle, encamp
on a grassy spot, and have them watched in their yokes during the night,
and to come forward at earliest dawn to the water-holes I had found near
Bugabada. We passed a miserable night without water at Cadduldury.
6TH JANUARY.--William Baldock returned at daybreak, bringing a message
from Mr. Kennedy, saying he should do as I had requested. I went forward
with the light party, and reached the water-holes by 8 A. M.. The morning
happened to be extremely hot, which, under the want of water and food the
preceding evening, made Drysdale very ill, and John Douglas and Isaac
Reid were scarcely able to walk when we arrived at the first water-hole.
But how the jaded bullocks were to draw the heavy loads thus far in the
extreme heat, was a subject of anxious thought to me. William Baldock
again returned to Mr. Kennedy with two barrels of water on a horse, a
horn full of tea, etc. On his way he met six of the drays, the drivers of
which were almost frantic and unable to do their work from thirst. He
brought me back intelligence that Mr. Kennedy still remained at his
encampment, with the two remaining drays, whereof the drivers (Mortimer
and Bond) had allowed their teams, with bows, yokes, and chains, to
escape, although each driver had been expressly ordered to watch his own
team during the night. This was a most serious misfortune to the whole
party. The rest of the drays could not be brought as far as my camp, but
I ordered the cattle to be released and driven forward to the water,
which they reached by the evening, sufficient guards being left with the
drays. The shepherd with the sheep could not get so far as the water, and
the poor fellow had almost lost his senses, when Mr. Stephenson, who had
hastened back with several bottles, relieved his thirst, and, as the man
said, "saved his life."
Our position might indeed have been critical, had the natives been
hostile, or as numerous as I had formerly seen them at that very part of
the Bogan. Separated into three parties, and exhausted with thirst and
heat, the men and the drays might have been easily assailed. No natives,
however, molested us; and I subsequently found that the tribe, with which
I was on very friendly terms there formerly, were still amicably disposed
towards us.
7TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, M'Avoy brought in the spare bullocks,
having been sent forward by Mr. Kennedy to travel on during the night.
The shoemaker also brought in one of the lost teams and part of the
other. I sent back, by Baldock, this morning, water for the men in charge
of the drays, and some tea and bread for Mr. Kennedy. He would also have
gone in search of the four bullocks still missing, but Mr. Kennedy sent
him again to me to procure something to eat. The drays carrying the
provisions had not come up, and my party too was short. The day surpassed
in heat any I had ever seen: the thermometer at noon in the shade stood
at 109 deg., a gentle hot wind blowing. The camp of Mr. Kennedy was distant
at least 16 miles from mine near Bugabada.
The six drays came in about 4 P. M.; the sheep not until long after dark.
Bread, gelatine, and ten gallons of water were sent back to Mr. Kennedy,
and a memorandum from me apprising him of my arrangement for drawing
forward the two drays, which he had taken such good care of, and which
was as follows: Two teams to leave my camp on the evening of next day, to
be attached on their arrival to the two drays with which they were to
come forward, travelling by moonlight during the rest of the night, until
they should be met by two other fresh teams, destined to meet them early
next morning. Also I informed Mr. Kennedy that it was not my intention to
send after the four stray bullocks until the drays came in, and the party
could be again united. Thermometer again 109 deg. in the shade all day.
The CALOTIS CUNEIFOLIA was conspicuous amongst the grass. This was the
common BURR, so detrimental to the Australian wool. Small as are the
capitula of this flower, its seeds or achenia are armed with awns having
reflexed hooks scarcely visible to the naked eye; it is these that are
found so troublesome among the wool.
8TH JANUARY.--The messenger returned from Mr. Kennedy saying he had found
him and the men with him, in a state of great distress from want of
water, having given great part of what had formerly been sent to a young
dying bullock, in hopes thereby to save its life. He also stated that a
tribe of natives were on their track about three miles behind. Baldock
had seen several bullocks dead on the way. In the evening the two first
teams were sent off as arranged. This day had also been very sultry,
especially towards evening.
9TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, the two relieving teams were despatched
as arranged, and at noon Mr. Kennedy and the whole entered the camp. We
had been very fortunate, under such trying circumstances, to suffer so
little loss, and I determined never to move the party again, until I
could ascertain where the water was at which it should encamp. I had been
previously assured by the young native that water was still to be found
at Cadduldury, and the disappointment had nearly proved fatal to the
whole party.
On the banks of the Bogan, the ATRIPLEX HAGNOIDES formed a round white-
looking bush.
I rode forward to Muda, accompanied by Dr. Stephenson and by Piper, and
had an interview with some of the heads of the old tribe, who remembered
my former visit, and very civilly accompanied me to show me my old track
and marked trees, which I found passed a little to the northward of my
present encampment. The chief, my old friend, had been killed in a fight
with the natives of the Macquarie, not long before. Two old grey-haired
men sitting silent in a gunya behind, were pointed out to me as his
brothers, one of whom so very much resembled him, that I had at first
imagined he was the man himself. These sat doubled up on their hams
opposite to each other, under the withered bushes, naked, and grey, and
melancholy--sad and hopeless types of their fading race!
The chief who formerly guided us so kindly had fallen in a hopeless
struggle for the existence of his tribe with the natives of the river
Macquarie, allied with the border police, on one side; and the wild
natives of the Darling on the other. All I could learn about the rest of
the tribe was, that the men were almost all dead, and that their wives
were chiefly servants at stock stations along the Macquarie.
The natives of Muda assured me there was no water nearer than Nyingan, a
large pond which I knew was 22 1/3 miles distant, in a direct line lower
down the Bogan. The ponds of Muda, their great store of water, and known
to white men as the largest on the Bogan, were alarmingly low, and it
became evident that our progress under such a scarcity of water would be
attended with difficulty. These natives gave us also a friendly hint that
"GENTLEMEN" should be careful of the spears of the natives of Nyingan, as
many natives of Nyingan had been shot lately by white men from Wellington
Valley.
Among the woods we observed the white-flowered TEUCRIUM RACEMOSUM, the
JUSTICIA MEDIA, a small herbaceous plant with deep pink flowers; also a
STENOCHILUS and FUSANUS (the Quandang), although not in fruit; a new
species of STIPA, remarkable for its fine silky ears and coarse rough
herbage.[*] This place produced also a fine new species of Chloris in the
way of C. TRUNCATA, but with upright ears, and hard three-ribbed
pales,[**] and we here observed, for the first time, a fine new
EREMOPHILA with white flowers, forming a tree fifteen feet high.[***] The
beautiful DAMASONIUM OVALIFOLIUM, with white flowers red in the centre,
still existed in the water.
[* S. SCABRA (Lindl. MS.), aristis nudis, paleis pubescentibus basi
villosis, glumis setaceo-acuminatis glabris, foliis scabropilosis
involutis culmis brevioribus, geniculis pubescentibus, ligula oblonga
subciliata.]
[** C. SCLERANTHA (Lindl. MS.), culmo stricto, foliis planis glabris
tactu scabris, spicis 4--7-strictis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque
breviaristato cartilagineo truncato 3-nervi glabro supremo sterili
vacuo.]
[*** E. MITCHELLI (Benth. MS.), glabra viscidula, foliis alternis
linearibus planis, corolla alba extus glabra fauce amplo laciniis 4
superioribus subaequalibus infima majore retusa, staminibus inclusis.]
In the evening it was discovered that no one had seen the shepherd and
the sheep since the morning, and Piper and Yuranigh went in search. It
was night ere they returned with the intelligence that they had found his
track ten miles off to the S. W. when darkness prevented them from
following it further.
I ascertained, by observations of the stars Aldebaran and Orionis, that
out present camp near Bugabada was in latitude 31 deg. 56', and thus very
near the place where Mr. Dixon's journey down the Bogan in 1833 had
terminated. Thermometer at noon, 90 deg.; at 9 P. M., 70 deg.; with wet bulb,
63 deg..
10TH JANUARY.--Early this morning Mr. Kennedy and Piper went to the S. W.
in search of the shepherd and sheep, while at the same time I sent
William Baldock and Yaranigh back along our track in search of the stray
bullocks. Meanwhile I conducted the party along my former track to Muda,
where we met Mr. Kennedy and Piper with the shepherd and sheep, already
arrived there. The shepherd stated that the fatigue of having been on
watch the previous night had overcome him; that he fell asleep, and that
the sheep went astray; that he followed and found them, but lost himself.
He had met one or two natives who offered him honey, etc. which he
declined.
We encamped beside the old stock-yard and the ruins of a dairy, only
visible in the remaining excavation. But a paddock was still in such a
state of preservation, that in one day we completed the enclosure. We had
passed near Bugabada similar remains of a cattle station. This position
of Muda was a fine place for such an establishment; a high bank nearly
clear of timber, overlooking a noble reach of great capacity, and
surrounded by an open forest country, covered with luxuriant grass. The
last crop stood up yellow, like a neglected field of oats, in the way of
a young crop shooting up amongst it.
11TH JANUARY, 1846.--Sunday. Prayers were read to the men, and the cattle
and party rested. The day was cool and cloudy.
12TH JANUARY.--Still I halted at Muda for the lost bullocks. To-day I
noticed the KOCHIA BREVIFOLIA, a little salt-bush, with greenish yellow
fruit, edged with pink.
13TH JANUARY.--Baldock and Yuranigh arrived early in the morning (by
moonlight) with five of the stray bullocks. Two others (young ones) could
not be driven along, and one old bullock was still astray at Mr. Kerr's
station (to which they had returned) and could not even then be found. We
had now in all 106 bullocks, and, considering the great scarcity of
water, heat, and consequent drought, I was most thankful that our loss
had been so slight.
I proceeded to reconnoitre the country in a straight line towards
Nyingan, which bore 353 deg.--and having found a tolerably open country for
about six miles, I returned and took the party on so far, and encamped,
sending back all the cattle and horses to the water at Muda. Enough had
been carried forward for the men who were to remain at the camp. To
ensure the early return of the cattle, I had repaired, as already stated,
the paddock at Muda, in which during this night, they could be secured,
having also sufficient grass,--likewise the horses. In my ride I found a
new grass of the genus CHLORIS[*], something like CHL. TRUNCATA in habit,
some starved specimens of TRICHINIUM LANATUM; amongst the grasses I also
found the ARISTIDA CALYCINA of Brown, the curious NEURACHNE MITCHELLIANA
Nees, discovered originally by me in 1836, and also a new PAPPOPHORUM
with the aspect of our European Anthoxanthum.[**] A smart shower fell
during the evening.
[* C. ACICULARIS (Lindl. MS.); culmo stricto, foliis involutis glabris
tactu scabris, spicis 8--9 subacutis, spiculis bifloris, flore utroque
setaceo aristato, supremo sterili angustissimo, paleis dorso scabris.]
[** P. FLAVESCENS (Lindl. MS.); aristis 9 rigidis pallidis plumosis,
spica composita densissima oblonga, paleis lanatis, glumis ovatis
pilosis, foliis vaginisque pubescentibus tactu scabris, geniculis
villosis.]
14TH JANUARY.--The cattle arrived early from Muda, and were immediately
yoked to the drays. I proceeded with the light carts, still on the same
bearing, until arriving near Dar, where I had formerly been encamped, I
turned to the left to ascertain if there really was no water there. I
found two excellent ponds, and encamped beside them after a journey of
about ten miles. The drays arrived early and I subsequently found I had
encamped near my old ground of 9th May, 1835, when I was guided by the
friendly chief of the Bogan tribe to the best water holes his country
afforded. By the route I had selected from my former surveys, I had cut
off the great bend described by the Bogan in changing from a north-
westerly to a northerly course, and the track now left by our wheels will
probably continue to be used as a road, when the banks of the Bogan may
be again occupied by the colonists. At Darwere still most substantial
stock-yards, and, as usual, the deep dug foundations of a dairy that had
been burnt down.
15TH JANUARY.--Eight bullocks were missing, and although the day was
fine, not too hot, I could not think of moving until these cattle were
found. Accordingly, at earliest dawn, I despatched William Baldock and
the native to look for them. In the course of the day six were found by
Baldock in one direction, and the remaining two, afterwards, in another.
An inconspicuous blue-flowered Erigeron grew here, also the JASMINUM
LINEARE, with its sweet-scented white flowers--and, near the water, I saw
the ALTERNANTHERA NODIFLORA.
16TH JANUARY.--At a good early hour the party moved from Dar, crossing
the Bogan and falling into my former track and line of marked trees. We
lost these, however, on crossing the Bogan at Murgaba, and made a slight
detour to the eastward before we found Nyingan, where we encamped, and
were joined by the drays by twelve o'clock. During this day's journey
Piper and Yuranigh discovered fresh traces of horsemen with those of the
feet of a native guide, come from the East to my old track, and
returning, apparently, as our natives thought, looking for traces of our
party.
At Nyingan we found many recent huts and other indications of the
natives, but saw none. Large stock-yards and a paddock remained, but a
house and garden fences had been burnt down. The great ponds were sunken
very low and covered with aquatic weeds. As soon as the camp had been
established with the usual attention to defence, I set out to look for
the next water, and after riding twelve miles nearly in the direction of
my former route, I reached the dry channel of the Bogan, and tracing it
thence upwards, I sought in every hollow at all its turnings for water,
but in vain, and I reached the camp only at dusk, without having seen,
during the day, any other ponds than those of Nyingan.
17TH JANUARY.--Early this morning, I sent Mr. Kennedy with the native
Yuranigh, also on horseback, to run back my track of yesterday to the
Bogan where I had commenced its examination upwards, and from that point
to examine the channel downwards to the nearest water, provided this did
not take Mr. Kennedy too far to admit of his return by sunset. Two old
women came to the ponds of Nyingan for water, by whom Piper was told that
the nearest permanent water was "NIMINE," where white men had attempted
to form a cattle-station, and been prevented by natives from the Darling,
many of whom had since been shot by the white men. They said the place
was far beyond Canbelego, the next stage of my former journey, and where
these women also said little or no water remained.
Mr. Kennedy returned at eleven A.M., having found water at Canbelego.
Yuranigh brought with him a large green specimen of the fruit of the
CAPPARIS MITCHELLII, which he called an apple, being new to him, but
which Dicky, the younger native from the Lower Bogan, knew, and said was
called "MOGUILE;" he also said that it was eaten by the natives.
18TH JANUARY.--The party moved to Canbelego where one or two small ponds
remained, but on the plains adjacent there was better grass than we had
hitherto found near those places where, for the sake of water, we had
been obliged to encamp. I sent Mr. Kennedy again forward looking for
water, but he returned sooner than I expected, and after following the
river down twelve miles, without finding any. I was now within the same
distance of Duck Creek, in which Mr. Larmer had found abundance of water
when I sent him to survey it upwards during my last return journey up the
Bogan. It also seemed, from the direction in which Piper pointed, that
the old gins referred to Duck Creek, as containing water; and as the
course of that creek, so far as shown on maps, led even more directly to
the Darling than did the Bogan, I was willing in such a season of extreme
drought, to avail myself of its waters. My eye had been much injured by
straining at stars while at the camp near Walwadyer, and I was obliged to
send Mr. Kennedy on one of my own horses, followed by Graham, to examine
the water in Duck Creek. I instructed him to proceed on a bearing of 35 deg.
E. of North, until he should reach the creek, and if he found water in it
to return direct to the camp, but that if water was not found on first
making the creek, then he was to follow Duck Creek up to its junction
with an eastern branch, surveyed also by Mr. Larmer, and to return thence
to the camp on a bearing of 240 deg.. I also sent Corporal Macavoy with
Yuranigh down the Bogan, to ascertain if the channel contained any pond
between our camp and the part previously examined by Mr. Kennedy.